how not to make a driveshaft

Feb 21, 2024 1:17 PM

kasteintf

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home depot's finest 2" black steel schedule 40 "driveshaft tubing"

very jaunty pinion angle on the ancient offset dana 60 (don't worry, it has a centered rear axle with the correct pinion angle now)

This was supposed to be a temporary driveshaft modification until I got my new rear axle in, and then I would take it to a driveline shop and have them retube it correctly and balance it. It runs perfectly smooth though... so smooth that I forgot I had commmitted this hackjob until about halfway into a Boston to Seattle cross country move. It has been in service for about 5k miles now and I see no reason to change it out, it runs smoother than the professionally built one in my Comanche with just 1.1 degrees more pinion angle than I was aiming for. I have done 95mph with this driveshaft (in Mexico.)

jeep

fabrication

doingthingswrong

The thing that should not be

2 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

better than PVC

2 years ago | Likes 7 Dislikes 0

Welds look decent, nice work!

2 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

they look good from my house but that's about all I can say. I burned it in pretty hot since it has about double factory hp going through it and prioritized strength over looks.

2 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

I had a homemade driveshaft in a Mazda Rx-7 once. It was smooth but it was a hack job. So I had a driveshaft shop refurbish another driveshaft for me, and once I installed it the car vibrated like a paint shaker on the highway.

2 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

time to go back to the hack job shaft!

2 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

How can you afford to buy steel at home depot?

2 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

And I have homemade shafts on one of my willys @op. Been in service for 25 years. It rarely sees over 45mph though. It looks good, especially for temp duty.

2 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

It was leftover material from a project years before - in approximately 2017 I had done a project that involved a lot of custom cut and threaded 2" sch40 from there, and they told me they were going to charge me for the whole 10ft length whether I took it or not, so I ended up with a few scraps leftover for the same price which went into my future project materials stockpile. I didn't use it until late 2020 when I fabri-cobbled this driveshaft.

2 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

Somehow I missed it was pipe, not tubing. Now I had my coffee haha. Scrap pile scores are the best!

2 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

I didn’t know Home Depot sold such steel. Do I understand correctly ,you made your own driveshaft from steel you bought at Home Depot? Wouldn’t a junkyard have been better and much less work?

2 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

If one from the junkyard was the correct length, yes. Once you start swapping in stronger axles and installing lifts, your driveshaft needs change.

2 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

This is correct. This truck is a 79 J10 with a 00 E350 rear axle, a significantly bobbed bed and shortened wheelbase, an LS swapped in, a GMT400 era NV4500 transmission, a thick transfer case clocking ring and a hybrid lego-built NP241D W250 transfer case with a 32 spline NP241C input gear and a second NP241C short front output flange bolted onto the rear output, so there is literally no factory shaft of the correct length, joint configuration, and ujoint/flange sizes to match what I needed.

2 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

It's 2 inch black steel pipe out of the plumbing aisle - I needed heavy enough wall thickness and the correct diameter to turn down slightly for a pressfit into the original driveshaft tubing ID so that it would run true and concentric, then welded it together. The correct way is to put it on a lathe and cut the welds out, then weld on a new driveshaft tube of the correct length and rebalance.

2 years ago | Likes 3 Dislikes 0

Thank you

2 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

2" ≈ 5.1 centimetres

2 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

95mph ≈ 153 kilometres per hour

2 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

this is 2" schedule 40 pipe, which has an actual OD of 2.38" (60.5mm) and an actual ID of 2.067" (52.5mm.)

2 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

You're talking to a bot.

2 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

I'm correcting the silly bot that thinks every single unit needs converting without being aware of the difference between nominal and true sizes in case anyone actually gives a crap. Which is admittedly unlikely. I think I'll simply block the bot so it stays out of my comment sections in the future though.

2 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0