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"I woke up this morning and as soon as I opened my eyes... I knew something was up. The sky was wrong... it was too thick, it was dark, it was - it was heavy I guess" - my friend's talking to me as we walk together up the famous Portobello Road, headed to the nearest volunteer station, "Maybe on some level I knew what that weird heavy air meant, because I wasn't shocked when I looked out the window and saw the fire... it looked like hell bruv - hand to God." He laughed sadly, "Hell's when the block burns down eh?"
Wednesday morning, the skies of affluent North Kensington (Central London), were stained an ugly, unwelcome ochre. Where the day before there had stood Grenfell Tower, one of London's most iconic housing estates, there was now just a heaving, billowing pillar of rolling smoke and brittle concrete.
Estimated fatalities are between 20 and 150, but that number - sadly - will rise. It's just a matter of hoping for as small a rise as possible. Speculation about the source and ferocity of the fire abound - but the consensus is that a faulty fridge wire started a little flicker in the insulation. In 2012, the building was, for aesthetic reasons only, re-clad with some ghastly and - as it happens - excessively flammable plasticine,
ddffgg
The local authorities and the government, including our ever-charming Prime Minister, Theresa May - ignored warnings about the material, and dismissed as unfounded the residents' concerns regarding their single-staircase fire escape.
London is dotted with estates like this: designed almost entirely between 1940 and 1960, "the blocks" are an iconic mainstay of urban skylines from Brighton to Bristol, London to Glasgow. The no-frills brutalism has a strange beauty to it, possibly because of the stark contrast they provide against the rest of London's architecture, and possibly because these blocks mean more to us than houses - more to us even than homes. These blocks - like the NHS - represent the very best of British values: inclusivity, community, work ethic and - of course - the Stiff-Upper-Lipped Bulldog Spirit that always carries us through the tough times (especially the bomb-y, plague-y, fire-y ones).
Here's why:
Ya see, Britain used to have this thing called an "Empire". Ours was a big deal - the biggest, the baddest, the gaudiest, the most unjustly acquired: this empire, even by empirical standards, did NOT fuck around. We were very fond of it... or, at least, the wealthy amongst us were. The rest of us (most of us) were just... well... drunk. The growth of the Empire brought Britain incalculable wealth and dominion - so, naturally we Pimped our London.
Seriously - check it out (Pinboard curated by me): https://uk.pinterest.com/walkerpappin/victorian-london-architecture/
'"Holy fuck - ", she gasped, she was astonished to see she just how easily she could take it, 'it's huuge... oh my god, I want it all' The World smirked smuttily back at the flushing Queen Victoria as it rested its drink on the side-table and tensed its equator 'Well then, Queenie - you can have me. Then if I'm *really* bad - I'll let you watch while Belgium hatefucks me."
Anyway, that's enough Geopolitical FanFic... for now. My point is that the empire was big.... then the first bunch of upstarts started getting antsy on the 4th of june or something in 1775 or 1777 or something like that... but it wasn't until, starting in 1947 with Gandhi's Great Passive Aggression, the empire began to dissolve. THIS IS A GOOD THING. Please don't think the Brits "miss" having an empire - we were wealthy, but it turned us into arrogant, eugenicist monsters. We committed atrocities against millions of people all around the world, we pushed drugs and booze on desperate vassal states, we robbed cultures of their histories, languages and dignities... we were horrid. And we're sorry.
Why's my national guilt relevant to the story of a burning apartment building? I'm glad you asked my dearest buddy/pal/mate/compadre... Because national guilt helped to build that apartment building - and hundreds of thousands more just like it.
See, the 40's weren't *just* about getting dumped by our colonies... they were also about getting dumped *on* by some cunt with a stupid moustache. And, of course, dumping all over him and his terrible paintings and ideologies forevermore. In London - this happened:
By "this" I don't just mean "me posting the only known photo of your dad", I mean the Blitz - ol' Fritz's bestest effort to fuck us up forever. I threw together a pinterest board to show you a little more: https://uk.pinterest.com/walkerpappin/london-blitz/
London was decimated. Huge areas were reduced to rubble, death rained from the sky on a daily basis and terror truly reigned - it's difficult to imagine what our grandparents experienced in those dark days, but we can be quietly grateful and cautiously optimistic we'll never see anything like it again. Let's just say, however, that we - as Brits - see The Blitz as the yardstick by which we measure "scary shit" - that's why assholes with trucks and knives don't phase us, nor even do irishmen with petrol-bombs.
Our Kraut friends ensured that Scaring London requires *at least* 350 heavy German bombers, dropping thousands of tonnes of high explosives on civilian targets every single night for 11 weeks, claiming 32,000 lives (and 82,000 further injuries)... and destroying a third of the capital city's infrastructure. After all that, London stood - to quote a rather excellent gentleman - "Bloody but unbowed"
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-2243951/The-astonishing-interactive-map-EVERY-bomb-dropped-London-Blitz.html
Every dot there is a bomb. Not a stabbing, not a gunshot, not a grenade - a Massive Twatting German Sprengbombe Cylindrisch 250... each one contained 130 kg (290 lb) of a mixture of amatol and TNT, and later TNT with additives including wax, woodmeal, aluminium powder, naphthalene and ammonium nitrate: enough to fuck up your day.
So, when that bloody war finally finished, The UK found itself at a crossroads. The Fascists were defeated - but it had cost us more than we could possibly have dreamt. Financially speaking, the damage is close to incalculable... but aside from that we lost 383,700 young men and women PLUS centuries of historic architecture and cultural landmarks.
Then... the colonies started to leave. That is to say, they started asking for their independence and we started giving it. Some requests were... stickier... than others (sorry, India), but vassal state by vassal state they started lowering the Union Jack and regaining their human rights to self governance.
A part of that meant that we, over here on this little Island in butthole of the Atlantic, had to be prepared to take in as many former commonwealth citizens as was needed. They were all welcome here - we owed them that much
So we built these. Loads of them. Hundreds of thousands of them. They were built everywhere where a German SC-250 had been kind enough to dig foundations for them: they all followed almost identical blueprints; maximum natural insulation, minimal use of glass... very utilitarian, very simple, very small, very cheap.... but their existence changed everything: they physically forced the wealthy white English to live next to the first generation Jamaican immigrants.
This meant that areas such as Notting Hill - affluent, predominantly white, privileged and ethnically/culturally European - suddenly found themselves with Jamaican and East African communities in Labroke Grove to the north and Bayswater to the East... Blocks, like Grenfell Tower or the more famous Trellick Tower, filled up with hardworking, patriotic immigrants who brought with them their foods, their music, their culture, their clothing and their attitudes. And what we got was this:
That's a shot from Notting Hill Carnival - the largest street party in the world outside of Carnival in Rio. Every year it takes over half of West London, and the Caribbean, African and Asian people of London (especially the Jamaicans) party with us whiteys and show us how to season the fuck out of our chicken. Mobiles stages roam the streets on the back of trucks, ganja is - for the weekend - decriminalised, the police use it as an opportunity to interact with their communities... Yeah, some people get stabbed, and you probably will hear a drunk white dude get carried away and drop the N-Bomb without thinking - but Carnival is the perfect illustration of what Blocks like Grenfell have done for the UK.
They're more than just big ugly towers: they're enclaves of authenticity in a sea of homogeny and gentrification. They stick out like sore thumbs... the proudest sore thumbs on Earth: The Block is a symbol of British cohesion and community, of the sharing of cultures and ideas, of cooperation in times of crisis and solidarity in times of fear. The first council house was built in 1900 - and since then its inhabitants have lived stacked neatly on top of one another through the Blitz, through The Troubles, through the "war on terror" - these big ugly Copy/Pasted heaps of concrete are everything that's right about Britain.
They're the stiff upper lips that still know how to smile.
That's why they're so important to us - so ingrained in our culture. We love these things - so for as long as I live, I'll never feel quite so sad as when I crested Portobello and saw the smoke on the horizon... nor as proud as when I arrived at the town hall to help organise donations to help the families affected by the blaze... this fire will leave a scar on the face of London, but it'll heal and it'll heal fast - because that's what we do here.
God fuckin' bless London, and thank you for reading if you've read this far
Trellick Tower - Ladbroke Grove, London
Easily London's most iconic block.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8nrVrWkq_dc
AstroKoala
Mate, this gave everyone a whole lot of insight about the London scene..well done brother..well done
FlooperRooney
Read AND favourited. This is precisely why I prefer the reflection on here after events rather than the "newspapers". Great job fam.
Sebastopol
Germany: bombing London to promote tolerance and integration since 1915. We are pleased to help :)
yougotredonyu
That was well though out and informative. Keep your heads held high.
apoohneicie
Wow, just wow. Thanks for the history.
Furiousfistfucker
bachterman
england: this land is now ours. india: but that's where we live! england: do you have a flag? india: no. england: then it's ours!
katniped
Thank you, OP. You've done a service to us all.
SilentAitch
'Stiff upper lips that still know how to smile' is a cracking bit of prose. Awesome work!
JamJarre
Your post is outstanding but man tower blocks do not represent the best of British. Lived and worked near a bunch and they're rough as hell
Whatyouregonnawannado
I ain't your buddy/pal/mate/comrade.
mdzmdz
The local Labour MP is on the board of the company that manages the block.
CommJam
She has only just been elected as MP. There are also residents on the board - it doesn't mean that they were listened to, or had any sway.
imgoingtoforgetthisusername
articulate and informative and entertaining. +1
terrorofthederp
Fantastic. Agree re the Blitz, after that, a few screwed up people with a rucksack or a hired van will devastate some lives, but not the UK
LankyFrog
SamuthNBS
Growing up in the country means I *had* a very different view of these tower blocks but you're 100% right, excellent post <3
SterlingDangerZoneArcher
As an American working with fire suppression systems in the UK, your fire safety codes are fucking atrocious.
Counterfit
This fire will hopefully do for the UK what the Station fire did for the US.
SterlingDangerZoneArcher
I was thinking more like Triangle Shirtwaist factory fire, hooray random high school history class memory!
SterlingDangerZoneArcher
Entire fire systems gutted and replaced by...sensors. Da fuq is a sensor gonna do against a fire!
apoohneicie
I am reminded of the Blur sing Blue Jeans 'air cushioned soles I bought them on the Portobello Road on a Saturday...'
MonocledTiger
Sadly these types of estates are also plagued by chronic underinvestment, it's rather telling that the facade was tidied up aesthetically /1
MonocledTiger
but fuck-all attention was paid to the safety of its inhabitants, despite many a plea from its residents.
daguq
Yeah - the refurbishment was to make it "prettier" for the rich people living nearby.
twuble
The building was reclad to improve building insulation + bring down energy costs. They didn't spend £10 mil for aesthic reasons.
daguq
This is untrue. It even states in the refurb report that it was for aesthetic reasons. 1/2
daguq
And, they chose a discredited, fire hazardous cladding to save money.
Megarith
I think you're reading a lot into convenient mass housing, but you do you.
Individualsocksinthewashingmachine
Also remember when those aliens were in the tower block in London and it just got covered up. Outrageous, So glad that kid joined the empire
whitewater0034
Not aften I watch a film and want the aliens to tear the living shit out of the "heroes"!
Individualsocksinthewashingmachine
And those prayers mostly get answered.
RatsLiveOnNoEvilStar
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1478964
Individualsocksinthewashingmachine
arse0132342
Fun fact: Trelick Tower was designed by Erno Goldfinger. Ian Fleming hated building so much he used architects name as the famous baddie.
SirChadwellHeath
Not that building: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ern%C5%91_Goldfinger#Personal_life
SirChadwellHeath
Fleming's Goldfinger: published 1959, Trellick Tower: designed 1966, opened 1972
DruidX
"Massive Twatting German Sprengbombe Cylindrisch 250" alone is worth 5 upvotes :)
llppbb
When are you going to release your British history book? Because you made all of that so easy for me to read and it was brilliant.
catznstuff
I wish I could give 100 upvotes for this informative and compassionate post. Thank you @HeavilyArmedOtter and God bless you London
c00lh4nd
They were meant to replicate the communities lost, by building communities in the sky... the patriotism that many brought 1/2
c00lh4nd
2/2 also brought social unrest with those locals who had lost their houses. They developed in to dens of iniquities, police no go areas
c00lh4nd
This was not just a London problem, in all major cities the same social trait occurred. This is why in many cities these enclaves of crime
c00lh4nd
Being torn down and replaced with social housing. Trying to recreate the communities. But many immigrant cultures cling together
TheKingOfTheJews
Excellently put together post. Awesome work @op. Liverpool send our thoughts and well-wishes.
kriebzz
Im merican as fuck and this..This made me jealous of london well written my friend god bless you pasty european bastards
GabeSalamander
Yeah, over here people are like "we have black people moving into apartments next door? Let me just move 6 miles north!" Like wtf...
FlatulentFerret
Very informative, and well written. Thank you.
notanigerian
OP appears to have the worst case of white guilt i've ever seen.
[deleted]
[deleted]
PanzaeronQ
Welp, username checks out...
macha100
Hear, hear!
NotOnRexManningDay
Knew the basics, but loved this. I'm an American, (US person??? for those who take offense), would l love more history written from you
MrMcCookieMuffin
Personally I disagree with OP, estates generally aren't a very nice place to live and dont hold a place in my heart IME otherwise its all A*
DickDastardly404
Yep, great read, although its worth adding that the cladding that caught fire was not just aesthetic, it was weatherproof, because the 1/2
DickDastardly404
Half-century old concrete was starting to crack and leak. People shouldn't have been living in that block. It wasn't safely habitable 1.5/2
DickDastardly404
And when it was refurbished with the cladding, the fire prevention should have been brought up to code, but to support property owners1.75/2
DickDastardly404
And landlords, only structures built after the fire prevention standard was introduced are required to have sprinklers etc. 2/2
TheyreGoodDogsBront
Take this for what it is: very biased and rose-tinted. This isn't representative of 'the British perspective' of council flats. See below:
TheyreGoodDogsBront
https://www.theguardian.com/society/2003/nov/30/housing.uknews
TheyreGoodDogsBront
https://www.theguardian.com/housing-network/2014/aug/22/britains-social-housing-estates-national-embarrassment-policy-exchange
TheyreGoodDogsBront
http://www.newstatesman.com/politics/2014/08/why-government-must-pledge-eliminate-sink-estates-ten-years
KrustyPartiallyGelatinatedNonDairyGumBasedBeverage
That fucking rag the Daily Mail published a picture of the guy who's fridge (allegedly) malfunctioned, as if the poor guy needs exposing
Tinkrr
inb4 he found dead :(
daguq
They also suggested that ecology measures had something to do with it. Scum.
Selerox
The Daily Mail needs to go. It's a poison in the heart of this country. It stains everything it touches with it's venom.
BrotherEstapol
Them and the Sun
TheManInTheWall
Daily mail, The sun, the mirror theyre all trash. Only moderately decent ones are the times, guardian and independent
kobasikusaba
Hopefully no 1 blames him. I cant even imagine how he feels.
badgerofhonour
They also had the nerve to say the first named victim (a Syrian refugee) 'only came here for a better life'. Hypocritical cunts.
KrustyPartiallyGelatinatedNonDairyGumBasedBeverage
The crocodile tears they cry for migrants after tragedies fucking sickens me
mdzmdz
Makes you wonder why people go to the bother of building bombs when you just need to rent a room and set your fridge on fire
fuckyouandyourwittyusername
Bombs are big, scary, and make people not want to go out in public. A fire is terrible, but won't stop people going about as usual, even >
fuckyouandyourwittyusername
> though it may cause far more death and destruction.
mdzmdz
If it made every person who lives in a tower block not to through fear logistically it'd be much worse
MinorityOpinion
The building was designed such that you could set your flat on fire, shut the door, walk away, and the building would be fine.
GenesisMachines
£5000 was saved by not putting the firewalls back after the renovation.
MerToo
er...judging by the burnt out shell and mass casualties, I'ma say it wasn't.
MinorityOpinion
The building was altered in a way that made it dangerous.
MerToo
first thing I thought when I saw that mess? "WTF, the sprinklers failed?". O waits, no sprinklers.